Connecting Spain and Japan Through Gastronomy
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Madrid Fusión Tokyo 2026
Madrid Fusión Alimentos de España Tokyo 2026 brought together leading chefs, wine experts, producers, hospitality professionals, and cultural figures from Spain and Japan for two days of discussion and exchange in Tokyo.
Founded in Madrid in 2003, Madrid Fusión has grown into one of the world’s most influential gastronomic forums. Each year, the event attracts chefs, producers, winemakers, and industry professionals from around the globe, serving as a platform not only for culinary innovation but also for conversations surrounding agriculture, wine, tourism, and regional development. The 2026 edition marked the third time the event has been held in Japan and took place at the JW Marriott Hotel Tokyo.
Among the speakers were Madrid Fusión General Director Benjamín Lana, Master of Wine Fernando Mora, three-Michelin-starred chef Nacho Manzano of Casa Marcial, and Katsuhito Inoue of Chef’s Table by Katsuhito Inoue. While their backgrounds differed, many of the discussions revolved around a common theme: the relationship between food, place, and cultural identity.
Beyond the Kitchen
Madrid Fusión today positions itself as far more than a culinary event.
In an interview, Benjamín Lana explained:
“This is not a culinary event.”
For Lana, modern gastronomy extends well beyond the work of chefs. Farmers, fishermen, producers, winemakers, hoteliers, and tourism professionals all contribute to a larger ecosystem that shapes how food is produced, experienced, and understood. “Gastronomy has the power to transform society.” That philosophy has become a defining characteristic of Madrid Fusión over the years.
The Tokyo programme reflected this broader vision. Alongside chef demonstrations, the event featured sessions dedicated to wine, olive oil, sake, craftsmanship, and tourism. Rather than focusing exclusively on cooking techniques, the forum explored the wider industries and cultural networks that support contemporary gastronomy.
Lana also noted that the Japanese edition is not simply a showcase for Spanish cuisine. It is equally an opportunity to create dialogue with Japanese professionals and to explore new possibilities through international exchange.
A New Focus in Spanish Wine
Wine was one of the central themes throughout the event.
Master of Wine Fernando Mora discussed the evolution currently taking place within the Spanish wine industry. According to Mora, the conversation has shifted significantly in recent years.
Historically, Spanish wines were often evaluated through grape varieties, winemaking techniques, or intensity of style. Today, increasing attention is being paid to origin.
“Great wines require little explanation; they speak for themselves.” For Mora, the future of Spanish wine lies in expressing place rather than pursuing uniformity.
Interest in single-vineyard wines and small-scale producers continues to grow across Spain. Consumers and producers alike are becoming more interested in understanding how climate, geography, and local traditions shape the character of a wine. Mora also observed that while power and oak influence were once highly prized, contemporary wine culture increasingly values elegance, complexity, and a clear sense of origin.
The trend is not unique to Spain. Similar developments can be seen in Burgundy and other major wine regions around the world, reflecting a broader movement toward regional identity and terroir-driven wines.
Photos by GEN DE ART
Cooking as an Expression of Place
Many of the chefs appearing at Madrid Fusión Tokyo 2026 shared a similar perspective.
Rather than presenting cuisine solely through technique or recipes, they spoke about food as a reflection of memory, landscape, and local culture.
Nacho Manzano, chef of the three-Michelin-starred Casa Marcial in Asturias, began his presentation not with cooking methods but with stories of his childhood and the environment in which he grew up.
Seaweed, river fish, mountain herbs, and wild plants featured prominently in his discussion. These ingredients were presented not merely as products but as representations of Asturias itself.
His dishes draw upon family traditions, local foodways, and memories passed down through generations. In this context, cuisine becomes a way of preserving and communicating regional identity.
Kyoto’s Aesthetic Values at the Table
Representing Japan, Katsuhito Inoue introduced a dining philosophy that extends beyond the plate itself.
For Inoue, presenting Japanese cuisine to international guests also means communicating Japanese aesthetics, seasonality, and cultural values.
Traditional Kyoto craftsmanship plays an important role in this approach. Ceramic vessels, table settings, and spatial design are carefully integrated into the overall experience, creating a unified expression that connects food, objects, and atmosphere.
Discussing his own culinary creations, Inoue remarked:
“I believe every dish needs a story. It is not enough simply to combine ingredients because they taste good together.”
For him, understanding why ingredients are selected and how a dish came to exist is an essential part of the dining experience.
His perspective echoed many of the ideas expressed by the Spanish chefs, highlighting a shared belief that food can serve as a vehicle for cultural expression.
Honouring Jiro Ono
One of the most significant moments of Madrid Fusión Tokyo 2026 was the presentation of an honorary award to Jiro Ono in recognition of his lifelong contribution to sushi culture and culinary education.
Accepting the award on his father’s behalf was his eldest son, Yoshikazu Ono. In an exclusive interview following the ceremony, Yoshikazu Ono reflected on his father with characteristic humour:
“People call him the God of Sushi, but to me, he was King Enma.”
The audience laughed, but the conversation soon turned to the realities of apprenticeship and discipline.
According to Ono, his father was often stricter with his sons than with his apprentices. He explained that Jiro Ono later said this was necessary to avoid any perception of favouritism.
Speaking about professional training, Ono remarked: “The primary purpose of training is to learn patience.”
Technical skills can be acquired over time, he explained, but without perseverance and the ability to endure hardship, no craft can truly be mastered.
When asked about his own role today, he answered simply: “My responsibility is not to disgrace my father’s name.” The statement reflected both the burden and the pride of carrying forward one of the most respected names in Japanese gastronomy.
Looking Beyond Trends
Over two days in Tokyo, discussions moved seamlessly between wine, olive oil, craftsmanship, tourism, and cuisine.
Although Spain and Japan are geographically distant, many of the speakers returned to similar themes: respect for producers, pride in regional traditions, and the importance of passing knowledge from one generation to the next.
What emerged from Madrid Fusión Tokyo 2026 was not a single culinary trend or technical innovation. Rather, it was a reminder that gastronomy is shaped not only by chefs and recipes, but also by the people, places, and histories behind them.
In that sense, the event offered more than a celebration of food. It provided a platform where Spain and Japan could engage in a broader conversation about culture, identity, and the enduring value of place.